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rivi3, 25 October 2016, 20:31
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Mazdafreak wrote:
Come on Jason, you know only those of us in the south can say "y'all". ;-)

Back on topic, did you buy the 18-200 lens new or used? (I'm guessing new based on current prices). I don't know if you want to keep that lens long-term or not if you're already a bit frustrated with it, but you can pick up used lenses for almost half of what they retail for, and at least at the camera stores here in NC, they'll let you try the used lenses out. If I were you, I'd probably be tempted to sell the 18-200, get what you can for it, then get a used 18-55mm lens. Next, (if you could swing it) get a used 55-250mm lens. I know that the sale of the 18-200 could cover the cost of a used 18-55mm lens with plenty to spare, and since the 55-250mm isn't in production any more, it can be had at a discount, and I believe it uses the mount compatible with the T3/T3i.


Lmao

I bought the 18-200mm in an emergency. My 18-55mm was having problems for a week and then on Day 1 of the 2014 Greenwich Concours d'Elegance, my lens decides "you know what I've had it" and gave out on me, so we had to rush to the nearest Best Buy and bought the 18-200mm because we had no time to do any research on it and we thought it was the best one. I'm thinking about having my 18-55mm fixed and keeping the 18-200mm just in case.

The camera stores may be cheap in NC, but here in NY/CT, everything is a hell of a lot more expensive because NY/CT. I'll look into that though.

rivi3
from New York
Mazdafreak, 25 October 2016, 20:45
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Understood. You may also want to look around your area's Craigslist site for lenses (if you have that up north). Not as reliable as camera stores, but you can get some great deals if you have some cash on hand and know how to bargain.

Mazdafreak
from North Carolina
VolvoMan05, 25 October 2016, 21:10
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The lighting in RAW and other settings should not be affected at all. Check your exposures to see if they changed, Raw is just JPEG but with all the data. And try the f/1.8 50mm. Average prices are 120 a pop

VolvoMan05
FanOfSuperCars, 26 October 2016, 00:55
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VolvoMan05 wrote:
The lighting in RAW and other settings should not be affected at all. Check your exposures to see if they changed, Raw is just JPEG but with all the data. And try the f/1.8 50mm. Average prices are 120 a pop

RAW helps in editing and such, but I don't think it would fix the problems he's having with his photos.

FanOfSuperCars
from Middle Of The Ocean, Unknown Country
VolvoMan05, 26 October 2016, 01:19
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FanOfSuperCars wrote:
VolvoMan05 wrote:
The lighting in RAW and other settings should not be affected at all. Check your exposures to see if they changed, Raw is just JPEG but with all the data. And try the f/1.8 50mm. Average prices are 120 a pop

RAW helps in editing and such, but I don't think it would fix the problems he's having with his photos.


It actually will help with quality because it retains all the pixels along with data.

VolvoMan05
abcs, 26 October 2016, 17:27
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I've had my T3 since 2012, and I know where you're coming from. I find it's good for panning shots but average at everything else. All the photos on my account are taken with it. I was saving for a new camera but I bought a car instead and now I'm in college and don't have the extra cash kicking around for a camera haha.
Last modified by abcs, 26 October 2016, 17:28

abcs
from Canada
rivi3, 05 March 2017, 20:08
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Will repairing my 18-55mm lens help the situation? I'm looking back at my photos from 2013-2014 and they were a lot sharper than my photos now. Only reason why I can't post them is because most of them were taken at really stupid angles.
Last modified by rivi3, 05 March 2017, 20:11

rivi3
from New York
Forzafaithful99, 06 March 2017, 02:30
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Next to the view finder on your camera body- there should be a little scroll. If you move this, it can mess up the percieved focus on your camera so even though it looks like your camera is focused on the car it may be focused on the background. Try messing around with a bit and it may fix your problem.

Forzafaithful99
rivi3, 06 March 2017, 03:44
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Forzafaithful99 wrote:
Next to the view finder on your camera body- there should be a little scroll. If you move this, it can mess up the percieved focus on your camera so even though it looks like your camera is focused on the car it may be focused on the background. Try messing around with a bit and it may fix your problem.


Holy f*ck I completely forgot about that. Definitely gotta try this and see if it helps.

rivi3
from New York
rivi3, 06 March 2017, 03:47
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rivi3 wrote:
Forzafaithful99 wrote:
Next to the view finder on your camera body- there should be a little scroll. If you move this, it can mess up the percieved focus on your camera so even though it looks like your camera is focused on the car it may be focused on the background. Try messing around with a bit and it may fix your problem.


Holy f*ck I completely forgot about that. Definitely gotta try this and see if it helps.


It's set all the way to the - side, is that how it's supposed to be? If I move it towards the + side, the entire viewfinder becomes blurred and I can't see anything.
Last modified by rivi3, 06 March 2017, 03:48

rivi3
from New York
Mazdafreak, 06 March 2017, 03:54
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rivi3 wrote:
rivi3 wrote:
Forzafaithful99 wrote:
Next to the view finder on your camera body- there should be a little scroll. If you move this, it can mess up the percieved focus on your camera so even though it looks like your camera is focused on the car it may be focused on the background. Try messing around with a bit and it may fix your problem.


Holy f*ck I completely forgot about that. Definitely gotta try this and see if it helps.


It's set all the way to the - side, is that how it's supposed to be? If I move it towards the + side, the entire viewfinder becomes blurred and I can't see anything.

On my Nikon, the viewfinder is properly focused when the + and - symbols are just out of sight inside the camera body. Don't know how it's set up on Canons though.

Mazdafreak
from North Carolina
DjShift, 06 March 2017, 21:40
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rivi3 wrote:
rivi3 wrote:
Forzafaithful99 wrote:
Next to the view finder on your camera body- there should be a little scroll. If you move this, it can mess up the percieved focus on your camera so even though it looks like your camera is focused on the car it may be focused on the background. Try messing around with a bit and it may fix your problem.


Holy f*ck I completely forgot about that. Definitely gotta try this and see if it helps.


It's set all the way to the - side, is that how it's supposed to be? If I move it towards the + side, the entire viewfinder becomes blurred and I can't see anything.


I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure there is no correct spot for it to be in. Just play around with it and whatever looks the clearest to you is where it should be.

DjShift
from Sodus Point, New York
rivi3, 07 March 2017, 00:39
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I don't know if part of the problem is that I'm standing really far back and zooming in on the car so that way I get a whole frame picture? Because whenever I do that, it always seems like everything else but the car is in focus (even if my camera says it's focused) or the front of the car is in focus but the back half isn't.

rivi3
from New York
FanOfSuperCars, 07 March 2017, 01:06
This post was deleted 07 March 2017, 06:47 by FanOfSuperCars

FanOfSuperCars
from Middle Of The Ocean, Unknown Country
davisvehicles, 07 March 2017, 06:29
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I still think its the lens. An 18-200 isn't sharp and gets less sharp with age, especially if you use it frequently for many years. Id just buy a used prime lens. I spent 450 on a used 24-105 F4 L and its incredibly sharp.

davisvehicles
from Milwaukee, Wisconsin
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